Page 22 - Retail Pharmacy March 2021

20 BUSINESS THROUGH INNOVATION COMPOUNDING NEW FACE OF COSMETIC SCIENCE OPPORTUNITY ot a day goes by in our clinical services department when we’re not asked about compounding products related to ‘skin rejuvenation’. Many ‘skin enthusiasts’ spend much time researching the latest products to combat the effects of the harsh Australian environment, to fade dark spots and to promote a glowing skin. Many compounders are drawn to this area of compounding practice because it seems easy, particularly when compared with compounding hormones for menopausal patients, which requires a high level of understanding of specific dosing, risk assessment and consultation with practitioners, or compounding for animals, which requires a different commitment – to learning about species specifics. However, if you’re a compounder already working in the area of dermatology, and want to further extend your practice to include ‘cosmeceuticals’, I’d encourage you to strive for a better understanding of what you’re preparing and the intention for its use, as well as any possible risks. Regulations Pharmacists should always double check that the scheduling of any of the products requested doesn’t fall into Schedule 4. This can occur easily when a patient is transitioning from an over-the- counter product, which they might have bought in any pharmacy or cosmetic clinic, to needing more targeted therapy. Ingredients such as retinoic acid (tretinoin) require a prescription and the patient must be referred to their GP. In the case of tretinoin, it’s critical to conduct a thorough risk assessment as it’s contraindicated in pregnancy and women attempting to become pregnant. Formulation Information available to beauticians is becoming increasingly sophisticated, so it’s equally important that pharmacists specialising in this field upskill their own knowledge so they have an increased level of confidence when speaking to potential clients. Sometimes we get requests for a product with five or six ingredients, and we must stop and consider whether the preparation will ‘hold’ and whether the ‘form’ requested, such as a cream or serum, is appropriate. You can’t always throw in the kitchen sink and expect a good result. This is one of the reasons that many of the well-known global cosmetic houses use a layered approach for their creams and serums. A customer may need two or three products, which are then applied one over the other to get the desired results. Some ingredients may not be compatible with others, and by separating them, the final products are not compromised or likely to ‘crack’. Considerations such as the purpose of the product and how often the customer will use it, as well as the customer’s skin type, will help to decide what base will be the most appropriate, as well as the concentration of the product required. For example, inclusion of alpha- hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid is common in anti-ageing creams where they help to improve skin tone by increasing cell turnover. However, these ingredients also have a place in cleansers to remove dull, congested skin and unclog pores, resulting in a clearer, smoother skin surface. Cleansers might be applied only once a day and rinsed off immediately, whereas an anti-ageing cream is more likely to be left on after application, possibly overnight. In this scenario, five or 10 per cent may be appropriate in a cream, but for a cleanser, a higher strength, up to 20 per cent, may be appropriate. Appropriate tools Most pharmacists would have an electronic mortar and pestle for mixing creams, but the addition of an ointment mill to reduce particle size of products will be a welcome addition if there’s a focus on cosmeceuticals. Apart from a facial or body scrub, there’s no place for gritty creams, and patients buying customised formulations expect high-quality products with a smooth silky texture. It’s critical to check the final pH of products and record the result on the worksheet after using a calibrated pH meter. A glycolic lotion may have a pH of between four and five, but the pH of a glycolic acid peel is likely to be below three. Patients should be appropriately counselled as to the impact of leaving a preparation on for too long, and the chances of it ‘burning’ the skin. The opportunity is there for pharmacists to discuss the supply of ‘neutralising’ solutions to help stop the chemical reaction and avoid a poor outcome. The world of cosmetic science is changing rapidly and is an exciting area of practice for those prepared to take an interest in new trends. By Marina Holt. Education and Training Manager PCCA Australia Marina Holt BPharm Dip Quality Auditing Cert IV TAE is the Education and Training Manager at PCCA Australia. Her main role is to give training on all aspects of compounding pharmacy to registered pharmacists and students, and to increase awareness of health professionals on the benefits compounded medications may have for their patients. Inquiries: marina@pccarx.com.au RETAIL PHARMACY • MAR 2021